Monday, March 28, 2011

Gelato-a-Go-Go

Being taught by a master in any field is always amazing. The passion and FURY with which Maestro Umberto Lupica spoke about gelato, the math, science, and knowledge it takes to make real Gelato Artigianale (artisan gelato) was enough to make you laugh, sit forward in your seat, and listen intently...regardless of the fact that he was speaking (very quickly, I might add) a foreign language that you barely understand.

I laughed to myself and to my friend Amanda when Umberto would fervently scribble a note on a topic that he had yet to touch upon in order to remind himself. Or when he would jump around from one topic to the next, going off on tangents, that, 20 minutes later made you go, "Ohhhhh, thats why he started talking about this." I loved watching the brilliance of a mind exploding to share knowledge with others. His boisterous trills and emphatic "No!"s would sometimes turn into a chuckle "heh heh" that reminded me of a little boy eating his first ice cream cone. And I think that's where the magic lays. He spoke of every step, every scientific measure, every element of gelato, as though it were the first time he was saying it, as though it was that first, marvelously new and exciting, gelato cone.

What I learned this week is indescribable, except to say this, gelato is not just Italian ice cream. It is a science that Maestro Umberto has spent 40 years studying. In years past, students were allowed to come only for gelato week and it would cost them more than a quarter of what us Master's students pay for 3 months... and I can see why now. I feel so fortunate to have learned gelato from the best, and so lucky that Chef John Nocita saw fit to build this into his already incredible program.

Chef Sabrina Mancin, herself an incredible gelatier (the woman who restored my faith in banana flavored things, by using real bananas-how novel!),  served as translator for Chef Umberto, and I know that was a handful because sometimes he would talk for 10 minutes straight and she would have to say "Aspetta!" ("Wait!") in order to translate everything he had just said. Other times she would just say, "Ok, I'm gonna give you the short version." Her endless patience with us --and our lowsy math comprehension-- is so appreciated.

I learned that math and food and science all go hand in hand. That being good at one, makes you better at the other, and that lesson is invaluable. I learned that balance is not just an outdated scale that you put rocks and beans and pitchers full of water on in order to calibrate. Balance is a method of preparation that every artisan should use to see if their ideas work, be it gelato, sauce, cooking, painting or people. Every artist must understand balance in order to be well trained. Balance is essential in the everyday ins-and-outs of life. When my sister used to say she wished she was an artist like me or my brother, my mom would respond, "You are, you are just a different kind of artist, you are a people artist." We are all artists of different realms, and we are all constantly trying to balance our art, our passions, our livelihoods, with this crazy world we live in. We must balance the ordinary with the extraordinary everyday. Balance is so much more than just a word or a formula on paper, it is a way of compensating every loss with a win. It is a way of thinking, a way of doing, and a way of being that I truly believe is evolutionary. The first quote in my notebook that I wrote down here in Italy, Day 1, our first lesson, Chef John said, "Passion is not enough, you must have technique." And technique comes from knowledge, balance, and craving for more of those things each new day.

Yesterday a friend of mine asked me what I was going to do when I got home from Italy, "Do you have more school still?" he said. I had to respond in quotations, "Well when I return I will have gotten two culinary degrees in two years, so I think I'm done with "school" for the moment." He didn't ask me why I had put quotes around school, I wish he had, or maybe he knew... But it's because I consider each new day in the kitchen to be school. A chance to learn, a chance to teach, and a chance to be schooled by someone better, wiser, and more knowledgeable than I, and a chance to balance old ideas with new concepts.





No matter what you do, no matter who you are, no matter where you find your passion and inspiration, every day is a new chance to acquire more knowledge and skill than you had the day before. Look at the world with a question mark. Ask questions until you are blue in the face or someone throws a shoe at you (who throw's a shoe?) It's the questions that go unasked that truly are the foolish ones.

Spingerti...

Amo cucinare,
Ryn

PS- I like these pictures because they perfectly capture the ferociousness with which Umberto works...  a man in constant motion is a man that never tires...or something like that

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Getting Scared...Fear is Your Friend

Fear is a funny thing. As a child, you fear childish things, monsters under the bed, werewolves, vampires, giant sharks (Thanks, Jaws!) and clowns (but for real clowns... are terrifying-case and point, John Wayne Gacy). But as you evolve into a bigger human being, so do your fears. Fears of success and failure, fears of being fat, fears of being ugly, fears of never being accepted as you come. And fears say so much about an individual.




My biggest fear to date is being "normal." ....... and clowns, I still hate clowns.




While in culinary school in Baltimore, I had the fortune of working as a TA for, in my humble opinion, one of the best Garde Manger chefs around, and a dear friend, mentor, and inspiration, Chef Michael Wagner. I worked as TA for his afternoon class of fifteen Intro to Culinary Arts students. For those of you unfamiliar, this is the first lab you take in culinary school, and it's kind of like they give you a knife bag, as though it were your army issue rifle, and throw you into the trenches without warning.




TAing was one of the best experiences I have had in this industry. To see young cooks wanting more, striving to become better, and thirsting to learn everything I had to teach was incredible beyond words. They all treated me like a celebrity of sorts, I even had a student, JK, who told me, "Ryn, when I grow up I wanna be just like you."Funny considering he is older than me. Today my finance reminded me of a conversation I had with this student, while I was studying in Ireland, and he had moved onto his second culinary lab. He was one of my favorite students (yes we do pick favorites) and when he started in my class he was the manager at a Denny's. It kind of became a running joke in our kitchen (as in many fine dining kitchens) to say, "this isn't Denny's..." His drive and determination pushed him to do something bigger, and by the time we finished our five week course he had been offered a position on the line for Baltimore's own (and my personal hero) Cindy Wolfe. I thought I might share it with you, a little bit of practical advice I leant him about transitioning into doing something better:






JK:Quit dennys!!
Me: Hallelujah! Now I don't have to hold my tongue when I reference a shitty food service place!! How was the first day at Pazo?
JK: Great! They actually serve food! Can u believe it?! Lol I'm so glad I have a real job now
Me: lol very proud jeff. very proud.
JK: A guy from CIA works with me and he said Cindy Wolfe yelled at him for messing up a tuna tartar and he went home, cried, and didn't sleep for two days!
Me: hahaha that's the life! I've been crying a lot here in Ireland. It's a tough business man. Just believe in your skills and put them to good use! and the tears that fall when you get home after taking a beating, THAT'S real, THAT'S when you know. When you know that you are doing it all for LOVE. LOVE the food, and keep being you. You're awesome buddy.
JK: That inspires me and also explains the mixed feelings I've been having about starting somewhere new
Me(here's the most important part): IT'S SCARY MAN, IT'S A BIG SCARY FUCKING INDUSTRY, AND OTHERS SEE PEOPLE LIKE YOU AND ME, GO GETTERS, THE ONES THAT SETTLE FOR NOTHING BUT THE BEST, AS ASSHOLES OR BITCHES, BECAUSE WE DEMAND PERFECTION. DON'T EVER LET YOUR FEAR GET THE BETTER OF YOU, YOUR FEAR IS YOUR BEST FRIEND BECAUSE IT'S ALWAYS THERE PUSHING YOU TO BE BETTER. JUST DONT EVER LET IT ROLL OVER YOU. I know Pazo is a BIG STEP from Denny's but if you aren't taking BIG STEPS, YOU'RE REALLY JUST STANDING STILL. Miss ya buddy. You inspire me!
JK: Thank you, Ryn!!


This conversation is actually when I first thought up the name for this blog. Thanks, Jeff.


My friends and I often discuss what drives this industry and what sets us apart, what makes your voice heard in an overcrowded, overworked and under-appreciated industry, and almost every great chef will say it in one way or another, (I choose to quote one of my favorite B-more originals, poet, lyricist, politician, and Soul Cannon frontman, Eze Jackson) "It's dangerous to be complacent."


Chef Umberto, Maestro di Gelato, said just yesterday that if today you reach your peak, tomorrow the only place to go is down. (or something to that effect, he said it in italian...)


The fear is what is important, fear is your best friend, and when you lose that fear, that's when you are really in trouble. When you think you have nothing else to learn, that's when you are screwed in this industry. That's the day that somebody else is going to sneak up from behind you and roll over you with their innovation. Complacency is the enemy of innovation, and without innovation, you are nothing in this world. Chef John Nocita and I often talk about this during off hours when a group of us are tottering around in the kitchen. There are many downfalls to being a perfectionist, but the funny thing about perfection is, it truly is unattainable. Nothing can ever be perfect. This keeps me striving each day to be a little bit better and better, and teaches me every step that the true perfection is in the quest for knowledge and the determination to continue that quest.


Spingerti...


Amo cucinare,
Ryn




Sunday, March 20, 2011

Where in the World Are You?

I saw this as the location statement when I joined twitter earlier today, in anticipation of my first Getter On the Go blogging (is blogging the correct term?), I thought it was a perfect question for my life, and the perfect embodiment of what this blog is all about. Getter On the Go is about my travels in the food world and where my passion takes me... plus so much more.  I come from the school of thought that life is what you make it. I see it ring so true everyday in the kitchen. You only get out what you put in. I hope that one day I will have 100 stamps on my passport to represent all the places food, passion and a love for all things sustainable and whole have taken me. As of now, I have added two countries to the little blue book, one of which, Italia, I currently reside. My life in Italy has been incredibly complex, new, and challenging, but every challenge teaches me a little more about food and about myself. Calabria has shown me its many faces, from the crystal blue sea below my terrazza, to the raging waters of a storm, to the bright morning after one. In turn, I have shown Calabria just as many faces. As my three months here begin to wind down and I consider what and WHERE are next for me, I remember the lives I lived before this one and I wonder exactly how I got here. There was no "on ramp", no here's-how-I-became-this-aspiring-Chef. There was my father, handing his high-school drop out daughter a fat envelope of papers and saying, "You're gonna go to culinary school in the fall." That was over two years ago. I missed the on ramp completely and got pushed out of a moving car onto the highway. And I just kept moving, you can't look back because then you miss what's right in front of you, and besides it's much better not to know what's about to hit you from behind. The key is to look straight ahead, see the tunnel and say, "Yeah, I can run into that darkness, because I have faith that eventually I will see a light and come out on the other side, bigger, better, and stronger than I ever thought I could be."


I hope this blog will help others to come into their passion, strive for perfection, and live each day in competition with her/himself, remembering that it does not matter if you are better than anyone else, it only matters that you are better than you have been the day before. Share your life and life will share you.

Spingerti...

Amo Cucinare,
Ryn